Isabel Ferrando Colombis 2018 Magnum

En quelques années, Isabel Ferrando a amené à un niveau remarquable ce domaine historique de l'appellation, situé au sud du secteur, dans le quartier des Serres. Deux cuvées de vieilles vignes existent, Collection-Charles-Giraud et Réserve-Auguste-Favier, tandis qu'une autre parcelle de pur grenache produit un vin proposé sous le nom de Colombis. Les conseils éclairés de Philippe Cambie aident beaucoup à l'élaboration d'un des vins blancs les plus raffinés du secteur. (Bettane & Desseauve, domaine de très haute qualité, noté 4/5)

Proprietress Isabel Ferrando has taken her Saint Prefert estate to France’s highest level, and she’s unquestionably making some of the most profound wines on earth today, including both reds and whites. The estate is located in the southern portion of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and covers roughly 55 acres, from which she releases five cuvées: two whites and three reds. Looking at the reds, the classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape is always a rough blend of 90% Grenache (from 70-year-old vines) and the balance Syrah and Mourvèdre aged in demi-muids and smaller barrels. The Reserve Auguste Favier comes from 60- to 100-year-old vines and is based largely on Grenache with around 15% Cinsault, aged all in older barrels. This cuvée always shows a seamless, elegant profile. Lastly, and what I would consider her top wine, the Collection Charles Giraud is always a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvèdre, with the Grenache aged in tank and the Mourvèdre in demi-muids. I’ve also included her Châteauneuf-du-Pape Colombis cuvée here, which is released under the Isabel Ferrando label. It’s 100% Grenache from the sandy soils of the Colombis lieu-dit located on the western edge of the appellation. As I’ve written in the past, readers looking for the essence of Grenache shouldn’t miss this beauty. While the style changed slightly in 2009, when she started including more stems and harvesting earlier, these latest releases show sensational depth of fruit and texture, and are almost overflowing with Provençal charm. Today, she is assisted by consultant Baptiste Olivier, who’s increasingly working with the top estates in the region. Madame Ferrando is at the top of her game. (Jeb Dunnuck)

Le domaine Saint-Préfert est situé dans le bas du village de Châteauneuf-du-Pape, dans le quartier des Petites Serres. Un terroir peu prisé de l’appellation, mais qu’Isabel Ferrando a su valoriser par un travail attentif, soigné et qualitatif dans les vignes. Elle y produit un vin moderne, d’une grande régularité, séduisant, immédiat, extrêmement soyeux et raffiné, auquel il manque un rien de fermeté. Les vins : le blanc 2017 séduit dès le départ en livrant les fruits jaunes de la roussanne. La clairette est salutaire : elle repositionne le vin avec énergie. En rouge, le Classique sera le plus immédiat. Pulpeux, rond et velouté, il arbore un profil moderne. Auguste Favier affiche un nez plus subtil. Nous aimons son toucher de bouche délicat et infusé. Charles Giraud est un enfant à ce stade : la maturité est là, l'origine méditerranéenne est signée dans les arômes, avec une touche sauvage. Ce vin demandera du temps en cave. (RVF)

The energetic Isabel Ferrando, while positive about the 2016s in the bottle, was also enthusiastic about the 2017s in barrel. "Seventeen is a fantastic vintage. '16 is a monster, '17 is a dancer. And in your life, which do you prefer?" she asked. Unfortunately, many of the 2017s were still fermenting in June when I visited. I did taste a fantastic Cinsault destined for the Auguste Favier, which showed incredible complexity and silkiness, and a demi-muid of Grenache boasting great tea and rose-like aromas, but given the late-running fermentations, I felt it was premature to rate or review any of the 2017 reds. Fortunately, the 2016s were singing from bottle. "I believe in using stems," Ferrando said. "It gives a sensation of freshness and menthol." Like other winemakers in the region, Ferrando has taken to Stockinger as a supplier of oak for maturation, claiming that the Austrian cooperage results in more freshness and tension in the wines. If you're a fan of 100% Grenache wines, don't miss her Domaine Ferrando 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Colombis, which she makes at Domaine Saint-Préfert, but which is reviewed under its own heading. (Guide Parker)